I’ve been home for a couple of weeks and I keep getting asked… “so, how was it?”

I am struggling to answer this simple question.

Do people want to know how was it living with 13 other people for 10 months?  What was it like to have very limited internet, no tv or newspapers and no new people, therefore ideas to explore?  What was it like to live in such a small footprint, so close to nature that you felt like the intruder not the dominating force?  What was it like to see landscapes being slowly moulded and shaped as the seasons changed?  What was the food like?  What did we do for fun?

The list is endless because just about everything that you do on a daily basis in Australia was different in Antarctica.

So how was it?  the long answer follows;

At times it was the most inspiring experience of my life.

Watching aurora’s in the stillness of the night, as they dance, twisting, slinking and writhing across the sky.  Bright greens and yellows the shyer pinks, purples and red, the energy is palpable and at times intimidating.  I could imagine how ancient civilisations viewed the aurora as the stairway to the God’s, I can almost believe it myself.

Sitting on the sea ice next to inquisitive Emperor penguins.  Being so close that I could see individual feathers, eyes and toenails.  In the middle of winter the silence of the huddle as they slowly shuffle around in the huddle swapping places and keeping each other warm.  In the early Spring listening to the chatter of the colony echoing around the icebergs, chicks calling, the occasional scuffle and the gossip and chat of a healthy community.

Spending time with people who have an adventurous spirit, who pursue experiences and are interested in peoples stories, the world around them and the way that they interact with it.  People with amazing resilience, courage and the capacity to step up to a challenge.

At times it was so mind numbingly boring that I could feel my brain turning to mush….

There is such limited outside stimulation available.  No newspapers, 1x dial up internet connection for 14 people, no tv, limited access to blogs or new ideas.  I was amazed by how many ideas are sparked by a simple afternoon of people watching at the pub or vigorous debate over which salami is better at the salami festival or deli.  Without the external stimulus, a group can quickly run out of conversation and it is hard work to find inspiration.  In addition to a lack of external stimulus the long periods of darkness over midwinter, play with your mood and emotions with depression becoming a new friend.  NASA calls this mood disorder polar T3 disorder, and recognises it as a syndrome specific to Antarctica induced by exposure to extreme cold, lack of daylight and Vit D deficiency.  Studies on British Antarctic expeditioners have found that 58% of expeditioners scored positively for depression over winter.  It is true your brain turns to mush!!!!

Living in nature, not on top of it

Living in such a small footprint takes some getting use to.  It is humbling to view the station from a distance and see the Mountains and glaciers rising high above.  To hear the glaciers creaking and groaning as they continue their slow and steady move towards the sea.  To visit Islands that have been used as Adelie penguin breeding grounds for decades and smell the distinct fishy, earthy odour of penguin guano.  To experience the fury of a blizzard as it roars around the buildings, the power of the wind as it pushes you down across the ground, the burning power of the intense sun bouncing off the ice and snow.  I became so much more aware of the Earth’s quiet constant energy, it is a grounding feeling of renewed respect.

What was the food like…

The food was amazing, especially considering that the chef had limited access to anything fresh.  We did not suffer on rations, as evidenced by the Chef winning against the Doctor at each months weigh in!!!

What was it really like to live with 13 other people for 10 months

It was actually relatively easy, most people made a huge effort to be calm, accepting and tolerant.  They encouraged each other, supported each other and looked after each other.  The people who didn’t participate were in the minority and fortunatly although at the time they had a negative impact on my personal mood, I can now barely remember their names and they will not live in my memory.  My memories will be dominated by the huge capacity that most people have to work together and support each other and that is the most important lesson for me.  People are inherently good and want to do their best, this is what makes being connected in a community so exciting.